With a nod to the 30s, café society and the flirtatious femme fatale, the emphasis on eyes becomes key with a look occasionally swapping black for plum, grey or navy or even daring brights. At Christian Dior, Pat McGrath recreated an exaggerated Dietrich/Divine.
Penciled brows framed glossy, poppy eye shadow at Collette Dinnigan, giving a contemporary note to the 30s vibe. For Alexander McQueen’s dance extravaganza, some eyelids were washed in coral or green (if not bare or greasy black). Smudged molten blue shadow glowed on girls’ eyes at Carolina Herrera and silver, elongated smoldering eyes were balanced by icy lips at Diane Von Furstenberg: a futuristic flapper came to life.
John Galliano’s theme was “beautiful, spooky, Victorian dolls”. Pat McGrath created a “soft watercolour finish” with purple circles around the eyes and orange on the cheeks. For Tom Ford’s eye candy vision, girls had layers of plum, brown and navy blended up to the brow and defined to a sharp edge underneath. A darker almost airbrushed effect was seen on eyes at YSL and at House of Jazz, where black cabaret eyes contrasted arrestingly with bare lips.
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