“Dead colours that make the skin look alive,” said Gordon Espinet, backstage at Gibo. Stylist Anna Cockburn wanted the girls to look “effortlessly radiant”, so Sharon Dowsett enlisted the help of beauty therapists to pressure point massage blood into cheeks. The only make-up used was transparent ether blue eye shadow, clay/grey shading and the sheerest pale pink on lips.
At Max Mara a cold lavender lip colour was accompanied by a spooky white glow across the eyes and at Jil Sander in Milan, white highlights were seen again but with a barely there mouth. In New York, Ralph Lauren and Matthew Williamson offered their interpretation of natural beauty with glistening lips and healthy skin.
Faces remained beautifully bare at Hussein Chalayan, Helmut Lang and Balenciaga; the merest hint of definition achieved with flesh toned tints and creams. A more polished, less scrubbed look evolved at Chloé where Charlotte Tilbury created an outdoor effect with rosy lips and cheeks. Bobbi Brown at Roland Mouret favoured an almost airbrushed beauty created with a palette of nude hues. Miranda Joyce for Prada created ‘chic naturals’ with even skin, no powder and concealer on lips.
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