Osman SS14

The Osman show was held at the Bloomsbury Ballroom, and the makeup was to be pure, fresh and expensive – ‘sophisticated youth’. This look translated as pampered complexions with Garnier Moisture Match and Maybelline NY’s Dream Pure BB Cream – which is ideal for oily skin and ideal for the show, as Osman hates powder! Blemishes were calmed with FitMe Foundation Sticks (which also have an anti-shine core); brows were groomed with the new Brow Shaper and eyelids iced with Color Tattoo in Eternal Silver, sheered out with Baby Lips (I told you it wasn’t just for the lips!) Cheeks were blushed and lips flushed with Baby Lips in Cherry Me and a slick of MegaPlush mascara was meticulously applied to lashes. One coat was enough. What’s most important is the light on the catwalk, as this is how the makeup will be seen. In this case it was very bright, which meant that we had to make the makeup look as discreet as possible. In some ways, it’s harder than tricky eyeliner to pull off something simple – you literally need a light touch. Fortunately my LFW team are truly excellent and I’d like to say a big thank you to them all, with special thanks to my number one and two, Hannah Paul and Lucy Pearson (who were SO on the ball), plus special guests Hannah Dinmore, Kristina Theodoris and Rhea le Riche. I couldn’t do it without you! Finally, my favourite model of fashion week, the beautiful, funny and appropriately named Zen.

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Ashish SS14 part 2

My ex-assistant and makeup mistress, Athena Paginton, was so interested in my blog yesterday about backstage at Ashish, I’ve decided to post some more photos especially for her. Here’s my demo model Flo; the aforementioned creative artists Ali Pirzadeh and Chloe Norgaard; me with the minxy Xiao Wen Ju (currently ranked 29th in the world league of top models!); my current number one assistant, Hannah Paul, with a look of determination on her face, and photographer Mark Molloy who impressed me by using a reflector AND beauty dish (you can see his great backstage pictures at www.markmolloy.com). I asked him to take a photo of me and Chloe (not that I’m obsessed with her or anything…) It just shows you what a difference the right light makes, which I’ll touch on in my next posting, the fourth and final of LFW.

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Ashish SS14

Ashish also wanted an eyeliner, but a very different one, inspired by a photo of Liz Taylor on a yacht, wearing Cleopatra style makeup. The theme of the show was ‘the morning after walk of shame’ when you’ve been out all night partying and go to the corner shop for your pint of milk. I created a kohl lined eye with a very long tail, using the top of the ear as my guide. It’s easy to go too far up (retro) or too far down (sad) – the line had to be horizontal to keep it street tough. I used Maybelline NY’s new Master Duo eyeliner which enables you to draw thick or thin lines and has an intense glossy finish. To enhance our story, a little ‘gold glitter’ was scattered onto the cheekbones and tired eyes were accentuated with smoky violet mixed with Baby Lips (it’s not just for the lips) to give a worn-in (or worn out!) effect. Again, preparation is everything so my assistants Hannah and Lucy practised and I tried a few different methods of application to make it easier for my LFW team to replicate. Which they all did, perfectly! The show was fantastic fun with 80s dance music and I was thrilled to meet Chloe Norgaard, the amazing Danish model/artist who uses her hair as a canvas. The hair look for the show was in the talented hands of Ali Pirzadeh, also at my agency CLM. Egyptian Cherokee!

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David Koma SS14

David Koma sent me this graphic moodboard before I went along to the fitting, which gave me a clear idea about his collection. Apparently, when David is inspired by a concept, he follows it all the way through. For SS14 the inspiration was Samurai warriors, made incredibly modern. When I met him at the fitting he mentioned uniformity, and realising how precise he is, I thought I’d better get mathematical (never my strong subject). David also wanted a makeup that would be worn by a real woman, which is why we came up with a cobalt blue (so flattering) rhomboid eyeliner, sliced by a Samurai sword (had to get that reference in there somewhere!) Preparation is always key, especially when you’ve got two shows back to back, so my assistants Hannah and Lucy made sure they practised until proficient and I rehearsed my demo in advance. Also I printed out photos of the look for the team to follow. It paid off – the line up was a dream, the designer was happy and the show was stress free (thanks to my agent Cassandra at CLM and the fabulous Maybelline NY PR team too).

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Traditionally, in two-dimensional geometry, a rhomboid is a parallelogram in which adjacent sides are of unequal lengths and angles are oblique.

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Todd Lynn SS14

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Todd Lynn’s show was the first of fashion week and certainly a kick start! On entry we were promised thrills and we weren’t disappointed. The venue was a club in Drury Lane with makeup and hair stationed in the car park underneath. Oh the glamour! Our set ups were still immaculate however and there were only a couple of dramas – a health and safety tantrum and a game of chicken between a van and the chief hairdresser, Mark Hampton, who remained unmoved and unfazed. Todd’s clothes were true to his rock and roll spirit; beautifully tailored (as always) with raw edges; a perfect balance of androgyny and femininity. He was inspired by William Burrough’s book Wild Boys so we created a savage brow with Maybelline NY’s new Brow Shaper, complemented by lustrous highlights on fresh skin, courtesy of Maybelline NY’s Delicate Pearl lipstick and their new must-have, Baby Lips. Actually, it’s MY new must-have! Here’s some blurry backstage action taken on my iphone in a hurry…

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Illustrated Beauty

Michelle Dockery

It was my great pleasure to make up Lady Mary of Downton Abbey (Michelle Dockery in real life) for a sitting with Claridges’ artist in residence, David Downton (no connection to the Abbey!) Michelle was effervescent, David charming and the surroundings elegant. For the first time in my career, I was able to leave and go to lunch with hairdresser Ali Pirzadeh (at CLM) and my assistant Hannah Paul (we had a not so elegant burger!)

 

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