I’ve really enjoyed the AW16 shows and have been inspired by what some of the world’s best makeup artists have created in collaboration with designers, stylists, hairdressers and nail technicians. Everyone pushes each other creatively. Casting was the most characterful and diverse I’ve ever seen this season and it was a pleasure to see male models around too. Shows provide a great opportunity to work with a team and the makeup artists on mine were wonderful. I dedicate this blog to them, CLM and Maybelline NY, because I couldn’t do it without them.
Osman was inspired by Little Lord Fauntleroy and the Buffalo Boys. I wanted to get across the tough nature of the character by creating a scowl with eye shadow. The stylist Anders gave great direction as always. We created a straight, serious line using a cotton bud to help guide us as we didn’t want to ‘wing it’. We used the darkest shade from the new Blushed Nudes palette and applied it wet for intensity. Skin was fresh and lips were milky – hydrated with Baby Lips and slightly paled down with Dream Velvet foundation for a boyish effect. Brows were brushed up with Brow Drama gel to accentuate the androgeny.
Sukhy Bhandal (@sukhyb_mua_sashandbronze) emailed me to say, “Osman was really cool! I’m a fan of a graphic eye as well as a smokey eye, which were both featured in such a subtle yet effective way. The make-up very much complemented the whole vibe of the show, and I was in awe of how you managed to create such an iconic look that didn’t overwhelm the incredible prints on the garments”.
I was really impressed when I found out the prints were based on Osman’s art work. And I loved the juxtaposition between leather and lace… studs were also incorporated into the hair to add toughness. Maybelline NY nail expert Michelle Humphrey played with texture on a dark nail, to tie in with the collection. Nails were kept natural and manicured to perfection, then painted with two coats of Superstay in Plush Velvet. Once dry, she used a matte top coat to create a velvet texture with a stripe of gloss down the center.
It was a treat to see one of my favourite ex models Ben Grimes backstage, although we didn’t have time to talk as she was busy organising the line-up, having cast the show.
Vogue online summarises the show along with some stunning close-up catwalk images:
“In the century before women borrowed clothes from men, and vice versa, there was froth and frou for all, without gender bias. Osman Yousefzada plundered the 1886 novel Little Lord Fauntleroy by the female author Frances Hodgson Burnett for his autumn/winter 2016 collection. His lady (and the gentleman that also walked the runway), wore the elaborate lace collars, dress socks, and velvet suiting of the storybook’s trend-setting protagonist with the same jaunty ease. This is androgyny in the broadest sense. Flamboyance, rather than the pared-down tailored simplicity that defined ‘androgyny’ during the Nineties, now prevails.”
Styling: Anders Soelvsten Thomsen @anders44
Hair: Antonio Calero for Moroccan Oil @antonioccalero @moroccanoil
Anna Payne, Olivia Cochrane, Lucie Norris, Cassie Steward, Marie Bruce, Gregory Kara, Oliver Simpson, Verity Cumming, Riona O’Sullivan, Dalma Podhoranyi, Alice Boxall-Knowles, Victoria H Sarnback
As always, Ashish was more like a party than a show! The concept this season was ‘rainbow crayola disco dream’ and together with his long time collaborator, stylist Anna Trevelyan, he dreamt up a riot of colour and sparkle. I’ve worked on this show with hairdresser Ali Pizradeh and nail technician Michelle Humphrey for many seasons now. Ashish and Anna always encourage us to push ourselves creatively.
The models wore head to toe colour co-ordinated outfits topped off with giant Afro wigs which Ali had lovingly crafted and coloured. They were matched by Michelle’s almond shaped nails, pre made and painted with custom blended shades from Maybelline NY ColorShow. Lips were either densely coloured to match or transparent, depending on how flattering the colour – we used a variety of Maybelline NY’s lipsticks, glosses and even eye shadows from the Big Eyes range. Skin was kept fresh with a layer of Baby Skin and 70s style lashes were achieved with new Push Up Drama mascara.
I was happy to see Jamie Baker (www.jamiebakerphotography.com, @jamiebakerphotography) shooting on behalf of our sponsor Maybelline NY. He’s kindly sent me some beautiful backstage shots and I’ve selected these to share:
Sukhy said, “I loved the entire look at Ashish and it seems I’m not alone as lots of artists from all over have been reposting the look! I love how wearable it is for an everyday girl, yet it still maintains a fashion/catwalk edge to it with the whole flawless dewy skin. As with last season’s show, I feel like the make-up helps to ignite a sense of celebration for diversity and fashion, and I love how you project the element of fun with it through the bright pop of glossy colour on the lip. Lastly, from my opinion, it was the iconic Ashish show last season that kicked off and inspired artists to play around with glitter and sequins, so I can’t wait to see lots of fresh, youthful make-up and colourful lips hitting social media and the festivals soon too!”
Styling: Anna Trevelyan at CLM @annatrevelyan
Casting: J N Productions @jnproductionglobal
Hair: Ali Pirzadeh at CLM Hair and Makeup @alipirzadeh @clmhairandmakeup
Hannah Paul, Sian Lidgate, Caroline Young, Elaine Lynskey, Rhea Le Riche
Fran Lee Done, Nina Jackson, Emma Broom, Lucy Pearson, Rebecca McMahon
Ana Fry, Alice Boxall-Knowles, Victoria H Sarnback
Thanks to Hannah Paul for chiefing the show until I arrived from Osman.
EMILIO DE LA MORENA
Emilio was inspired by two great ladies – the Duchess of Alba and Tamara de Lempicka – both of whom led artistic, dramatic and eventually tragic lives. The character was aristocratic – a little crazy and lost, but still a lady. The clothes were chic and sexy, featuring some delicate lingerie as outerwear. Maybelline NY’s new Blush Nudes collection fit our purposes perfectly – we enhanced the models using shades that exist in the skin – warm pink, rose mauve, nude taupe and naked brown. Jamie Baker was backstage again and captured some serene moments, even during the line up, with everyone crammed into a narrow corridor. Thanks Jamie!
A light layer of Maybelline NY’s new Dream Velvet Foundation and dusting of Matte Maker powder made complexions look flawless and brows were defined with the new Brow Pomade pencils. Eye shadows from the Blushed Nudes palette were applied with a light touch to sculpt and slightly ‘tire’ the eyes – we intensified by layering on more when we found out that most of the models would be wearing lace masks.
Baby Lips Balm and Blush in Flirty Pink was worn low on the cheeks (Blooming Ruby for darker skin tones) and Color Sensational Lipstick in Fairly Bare, Pink Fling or Naked Brown, depending on what suited the model’s skin tone best. The Cupid’s bow was given a satiny highlight with Master Drama The Nudes pencil. Michelle blushed nails with a soft rose manicure, using Dusty Pink from Maybelline NY’s ColorShow Blushed Nudes.
Styling: Agata Belcen
Hair: Karin Bigler @karinbigler
Hannah Paul, Elaine Lynskey, Caroline Young, Sian Lidgate, Fran Lee Done
Oonah Anderson, Dalma Podhoranyi, Alice Boxall-Knowles and Victoria H Sarnback
Nails on all shows: Michelle Humphrey for Maybelline NY @nailsbymh at LMC Worldwide www.lmcworldwide.com
Makeup Sponsor: Maybelline NY www.maybelline.co.uk @maybellinenyuk
Agent: CLM Hair and Makeup www.clmuk.com @clmhairandmakeup
Many thanks to all the makeup artists and my assistants Alice Boxall-Knowles and Victoria H Sarnback for their photos and mood boards. Special thanks to the Maybelline NY team – Lesley Chivers, Ella Anyanwu, Georgie Cashman and Rachael Peck – and my agent Cassandra Maxwell and her team, Melanie de la Cruz and Jazz Harris.