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I’ve been enjoying looking through my archives in my new Studio and found this postcard which was designed for my company by the illustrator and artist Fiona Wylie (the original ‘eye’ logo was designed by Reed Wilson). This discovery triggered a jaunt through my previous website (accessed top right) to look at Fiona’s trend inspired images for i-shadow.net, SS04. They’re so vibrant I thought they were well worth a revisit. You can read the text by fellow make-up artist Lee Pycroft and myself at:

http://www.i-shadow.net/wp/previous/issue03/trends/index.htm

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LOUD MOUTHS AND BIG BROWS inspired by Tracy Boyd

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COLOURAMA inspired by J Maskrey

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SUPER NATURAL inspired by Julie Verhoeven for GIBO

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NAUGHTY NOUGHTIES inspired by Collette Dinnegan

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HEAVENLY EARTHLY inspired by Warren Noronha

Fiona’s work can be viewed at:

http://www.artshole.co.uk/fionawylie.htm

Thank you Fiona!

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Liberty’s Lips

I’ve just moved into my new Studio and the best bit has been going through old files and finding photos like these, taken by Andrew Gallimore in the days when we worked together. These lovely lips belong to beautiful model and actress Liberty Ross, who has always been elegant, graceful and fun to work with. We sneaked these shots in whilst working with photographer Donna Trope… Naughty! But nice.

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Vogue etc by Venetia Scott

I’m very pleased to see the story in Vogue that I was part of, Halcyon Days, photographed by Venetia Scott, styled by Bay Garnett and shot on location at Wembury House in Plymouth, with hair by Neil Moodie. It was delightful to work with models Grace Hartzel, Julie Hoomans, Holly-Rose Emery, Matilda Lowther and Danni Witt, pictured below, dressed up for a prom-night full of promise.

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And here’s Danni Witt again, on a park bench and not a bed this time, for the Blugirl campaign which Venetia shot in April. You get the sense of early Spring (it was cold!)with these behind-the-scene photos from Vogue Italia online: http://www.vogue.it/en/shows/oddities/2014/07/blugirl-fall-winter-2014-2015-advertising-campaign#ad-image

Blugirl on bench by Venetia Scott

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Sharon at Blugirl

In May and June, Venetia shot and styled a black and white story for i-D magazine, featuring three models in Brighton and Hove. It’s hard not to fall in love with these girls! You can watch them, in colour, and get a breath of sea air at i-D Vice magazine online: http://i-d.vice.com/en_gb/watch/episode/4456/sweet-cherry-extraordinary

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Finally (for now) Venetia has just published a story for Muse magazine called Fourteen Faces, and I did make-up for seven of them, two of which are pictured below. You can see the others on Venetia’s portfolio http://www.clmuk.com/photography/venetia-scott

Fourteen Girls

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Hunger Beauty

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One of the thrillis of LFW was crossing the road towards Somerset House and seeing this poster for the seventh issue of HUNGER magazine, advertising its eight covers (one of which I did the make-up for, on rising star Hollie-May Saker, above). Most exciting was the beauty story inside, inspired by CHANEL’s Fall Collection États Poétique. The idea of Gabrielle Chanel writing love letters at her desk was updated into the narrative of a young girl in her bedroom, dreaming of fronting her own band. We called the story ‘Pop Star Punk Poet’ and you can see the film of Hollie-May rocking out to Wolf Alice’s song, ‘Moaning Lisa Smile’, in the specially created Hunger bedroom (set designed by Lucy Cooper, at http://www.hungertv.com/feature/pop-star-punk-poet/

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Photographer Rankin, Director Vicky Lawton

Fashion Editor Anna Hughes-Chamberlain

Make-up Sharon Dowsett using CHANEL Rouge Allure Gloss and Fall Collection 2014
Make-up Assistant Athena Paginton
Hair Federico Ghezzi at CLM Hair and Make-up using Kérastase
Nails Ama Quashie at CLM Hair and Make-up using CHANEL Le Vernis

It’s such a pleasure to work with Rankin and his team – the studio is like a picture making factory! This shoot was particularly special because it was commissioned by my ex-assistant and incredible make-up artist Andrew Gallimore, who is now beauty editor at large of HUNGER magazine. Buy the issue to enjoy his amazing beauty stories too!

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SS15 LFW Ashish

Ashish Mood Board

Ashish was inspired by trashy celebrity magazine and fan art, sending models down the runway in  sequinned sportswear. Ali Pirzadeh, Michelle Humphrey and I matched him for sparkle with gem encrusted chaos on eyes and nails and tinsel throughout the hair.

Bridget March at Cosmopolitan describes the look:

An Ashish catwalk show is invariably a vivid affair, the designer’s sequin passion is central to the garms, and this season it was at the heart of the beauty look too. The London Fashion Week show for Spring/Summer 2015 had an all-black model line-up, including awesome America’s Next Top Model Contestant Chantelle Brown-Young (aka Winnie Harlow), who is also a spokesmodel for the skin pigment condition vitiligo. Off the catwalk, Cosmo met her backstage where she was getting glittered-up to work the party trend: “showgirl without the drag”. It was incredible.

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On makeup was Maybelline’s Sharon Dowsett (their marv UK Makeup Director) who made the outrageous festive faces actually party-appropriate, the secret being “no liner and no lashes”. This gave the glitter look – crystals bordering the bottom lash lines and gem-encrusted chaos on the top eyelids – a cool, rather than kitsch, feel. Try it!Maybelline Nail Expert Michelle Humphrey (who works closely with Lily Allen’s killer talons), gave girls “Cosmic Cluster” nail art using some of the same crystals in the makeup look.

http://www.cosmopolitan.co.uk/beauty-hair/beauty-trends/news/a29719/winnie-harlow-ashish-makeup-ss15/

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Photo by Hannah Dinmore

We protected the skin from glitter by creating a tissue mask with surgical tape, a technique that Lily Allen shared with me. Hannah Dinmore had just ten minutes to do Betty’s makeup, as illustrated (below) by Lily Melrose who wrote a review on her blog:

http://www.etcllymlrs.com/2014/09/ashish-ss15-beauty-report.html

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Hair at Ashish Lily Melrose

Ashish works really closely with the stylist Anna Trevelyan who always gives great direction to hair, makeup and nails. She’s an inspiration herself. The best thing about the Ashish show, apart from the stunning clothes, is the atmosphere. Ashish walks around saying “Amazing!” which is encouraging! Everyone enjoys the process – even though it can be stressful, we’re all smiling. The best smile award goes to beautiful Cheyenne Maya Carty at Elite www.elitemodellondon.co.uk who was the first exit at her first show, when she walked for Ashish two seasons ago. She’s grown up gorgeous.

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Photos by Philip Trengrove

I love these backstage photos by Asia Werbel for 1883 magazine online:

http://www.1883magazineblog.com/lfw-ss15-day-5-ashish-backstage/

Ashish and Anna

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Ashish lineup

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Instagrams courtesy of i-D magazine @id_magazine and Winnie Harlow @winneharlow

Styling by Anna Trevelyan

Hair by Ali Pirzadeh and team @ CLM Hair & Make-up for L’Oréal Professionnel

Make-up by Sharon Dowsett and team at CLM Hair & Make-up for Maybelline NY

Nails by Michelle Humphrey at LMC London for Maybelline NY

Production by Family, PR by We Are Village

Watch the show: http://youtu.be/F3cI6N-z3t8

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SS15 LFW Osman

Osman mood board

In the designer’s own words, “The Osman SS15 woman embodies a sense of adventure.” At the fitting, stylist Joanna Schlenzka advised that the theme was ‘luxury Woodstock’, so we imagined an elegant, pampered festival girl, who stayed in a teepee and not a tent. Hair was very natural and so was the make up – fresh skin with an excited flush, minimalist lips and an earthy element on the eye for a graphic focus.

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Osman festival vibe

Instagram courtesy of Fran Lee Done @frandonemakeup

The festival vibe was kept up backstage and despite the early hour (6am call time) Carly Jemma Hobbs @carlytoptip was on tip top form and the atmosphere sedate.

Carly Top Tip

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http://www.fashionising.com/runway/b–osman-beauty-ss-15-79915.html#1

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Photo by Stephanie Yt

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Instagram courtesy of Michelle Humphrey @nailsbymh

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The team at InStyle loved the collection:

http://www.instyle.co.uk/fashion/news/video-review-osman-ss15-london-fashion-week

Styling by Joanna Schlenzka, Hair by Nick Irwin for Tigi

Make-up by Sharon Dowsett and team at CLM Hair & Make Up for Maybelline NY

Nails by Michelle Humphrey at LMC London for Maybelline NY

Production by FAMILY, PR by Nick Collins

Watch the show: http://youtu.be/P9fiqYS6T6A

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SS15 LFW David Koma

David Koma mood board

Supple fabrics, sporty details and tonal colour blocking in summery whites, yellows and blues.

David Koma sent us a moodboard with the following description for the make-up: minimal, sleek, healthy, young, clean, fresh, dewy. With the help of stylist Kim Howells, we created a parallel eyeliner set off by pearlised white pop. Skin was lightly tanned by my long term partner in healthy glows, Nichola Joss from St Tropez.

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The lines had to be perfect and the whole team struggled with the ‘tram track’ eyeliner challenge at first, but it did turn out perfectly in the end, even on the models who arrived just before the show started. Apart from the one who arrived when the show HAD already started!

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Photos by Tristan Fewings for Getty

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Richard Nicoll Asia Werbel

The photographer Asia Werbel @asiawerbel took some incredible shots!

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Elle UK instagram David KomaVogue instagram David Koma

Instagrams courtesy of Hannah Dinmore @missdmore, Sian Lidgate @sianlidgate, Joely Walker @jgwalkerelle @elleuk and Lottie Winter @lottieawinter @britishvogue

Styling by Kim Howells, Hair by Nick Irwin for Tigi

Make-up by Sharon Dowsett and team at CLM Hair & Make Up for Maybelline NY
Nails by Michelle Humphrey at LMC Worldwide for Maybelline NY

Tans by Nichola Joss and Jules Hepstonstall for St Tropez

Production by Bacchus, Casting by Piergiorgio de Moro

PR by The Communications Store

Watch the show: http://youtu.be/wE27B31HFyc

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SS15 LFW Lucas Nascimento

Lucas Mood Board

Transparency, fluidity and the female form. The juxtaposition of soft, sheer organza with thick, raw edged leather.

A modern, romantic goddess with alabaster skin, wet highlights and a graphic white lined eye. I’ve worked with the stylist, Karen Langley, on many occasions, and it’s a smooth process when you’ve built up trust. It was my first season with Lucas and he couldn’t have been more charming. I was impressed by how he made knit look new.

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Photos by Ian Gavan

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Review and photos at http://insideout.topshop.com/2014/09/lucas-nascimento-ss15

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Photos by Piczo for i-D Vice

http://i-d.vice.com/en_gb/look/fashion-stories/4623/lfw-lucas-nascimento-ss15

Betty at Lucas

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Photos by Lea Colombo (aged 19!) for Dazed Digital

http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/21687/1/lucas-nascimento-ss15

Lucas Nascimento, Ready To Wear Collection Spring Summer 2015 in London

Review and gorgeous catwalk photos on Deux Hommes magazine:

http://deuxhommesmag.com/lucas-nascimento-spring-summer-2015-lfw/

At SS15 Lucas Nascimento, nothing was as it seemed. Dresses were deconstructed – spliced in half revelling matching structured bra tops, whilst shoulders were draped and hemlines were chopped, slashed and re-imagined in innovative ways creating a truly unique aesthetic giving the collection a strong visual identity. Playful texture was a reoccurring theme throughout with raw-edged leather, sheer flesh exposing chiffon, double faced silks and knitted jacquards all present in the collection, whilst colour came in the form of tangerine, mustard, lime and teal hues. Each look was complete with a pair of pointed ballet shoes, whilst hair was slicked back at the sides. The Lucas Nascimento woman is fierce, self assured and effortlessly stylish this spring.

Lucas Nascimento, Ready To Wear Collection Spring Summer 2015 in London Lucas Nascimento, Ready To Wear Collection Spring Summer 2015 in London

See more at: http://www.wonderlandmagazine.com/2014/09/lfw-lucas-nascimento-ss15/

Lucas Sian Instagram

Instagram courtesy of Sian Lidgate @sianlidgate

Styling by Karen Langley, Hair by Kenna for ghd

Make-up by Sharon Dowsett and team at CLM Hair & Make-up for Maybelline NY

Nails by Michelle Humphrey at LMC London for Maybelline NY

Production by Bacchus PR, PR by Rainbow Wave

Watch the show: http://youtu.be/FUd-lX5lPDg

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SS15 LFW Richard Nicoll

Richard Nicoll mood board

A dreamy collection of holographic fabrics and ethereal layers with a fibre optic glow in the dark finale.

A young Kate Moss – the kind of girl you want to be – with fresh, sporty skin and an eye that’s rooted in reality; grounded by black kohl and mascara. The stylist wanted honesty and intimacy – she said if there are tan lines then don’t hide them. The Clarisonic team bridged the gap between skin care and make-up, ensuring that faces were cleansed, massaged and moisturised. With great casting, this was our easiest show!

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Photo of Hollie-May Saker by Tim P Whitby for Getty Images

The Beauty Spot

It’s always great to see writer Anna-Marie Solowij of www.thisisbeautymart.com backstage as she has such an intelligent take on beauty. Here’s what she said in The Beauty Spot about ‘nothing’ make-up. It’s really something…

Natural, nude, barely there, sheer, transparent, simple, healthy, clean: this is the make-up lexicon for SS15. And yes, it does sound like a trend that could – on a bad day – be considered a little boring. Even, dare I say, non-existent. But today is a good day and, although the same references keep cropping up show after show (a natural 90s girl who has just woken up/walked out of the sea/is standing on a street corner), there is definitely something in all this ‘nothing’. “You may think it’s nothing,” says Maybelline’s UK Make-Up Director Sharon Dowsett, who was creating an ‘updated, washed-out, 90s look’ at Richard Nicoll, using a colour palette of flesh tones from chocolate to alabaster. “But it takes a lot of make-up for nothing to look beautiful,” she claims, reeling off seven products used on every model’s face to achieve a flawless complexion.

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Beautiful portraits by Lea Colombo for Dazed Digital

http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/21688/1/richard-nicoll-ss15

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I love these photos by Sonny Vandevelde, who says, “Fashion should be fun and I love to capture those fun moments!”

http://sonnyphotos.com/2014/09/richard-nicoll-ss15-fashion-show-london-backstage

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Instagram courtesy of Lara Himpelmann @laralma-keup

Styling by Siobhan Lyons, Casting by Russell Marsh

Hair by Nicola Clarke and the John Frieda team

Make-up by Sharon Dowsett and team at CLM Hair & Make-up for Maybelline NY

Nails by Michelle Humphrey at LMC London for Maybelline NY

Production by INCA, PR by The Communications Store

Skin care by Clarisonic www.clarisonic.co.uk with special thanks to Lora Jayne and her team, Kathryn Hicks and Angela Feehan

Watch the show: http://youtu.be/z9aof24Nu3o

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SS15 LFW Joseph

Mood board Joseph

Geisha culture transported into the 21st century with an injection of sports luxe.

‘Geisha scally with a scouse brow’. More Kate Middleton on her wedding day than Desperate Scousewives. Brows were darkened by two hair shades although some were poles apart! Skin was kept fresh and lips bare to keep in tune with the sports element. Girls with their own individual hair styles weren’t pulled into a ‘geisha’ style. It was a ‘mixed bag’ in Eugene’s words.

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Instagrams courtesy of Sian Lidgate @sianlidgate and Philip Ueberfellner @philippmakeup

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As Reem Kanj from Five Five Fabulous said:

“I went backstage at Joseph to capture the minimal yet striking look that Director of Make-up at Maybelline, Sharon Dowsett, was creating. A fresh look with plenty of focus on the brows was the brief, and Dowsett notes Baby Lips and the Master Shape Brow Pencil as her hero products to create this. The fresh faces of the models were the perfect counterpart to this clean and neutral collection.”

http://www.fivefivefabulous.com/2014/09/14/maybelline-london-fashion-week/

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Photos by Piczo for i-D Vice, who really captured the atmosphere!

http://i-d.vice.com/en_gb/look/fashion-stories/4618/joseph-ss15

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I also love these photos by Philip Trengove for Dazed Digital which shed a different light.

http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/21685/1/joseph-ss15

Styling by Jane How, Hair by Eugene Soulieman for Wella

Production by Jack Hoyland, PR by Rosie Seabrook

Make-up by Sharon Dowsett and team at CLM Hair & Make Up for Maybelline NY

Nails by Ama Quashie at CLM Hair & Make Up for L’Oreal Paris

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