All products by Maybelline NY. Makeup and photos by Team Dowsett.
TODD LYNN – ‘Ready for battle in clothes that are unconventionally layered, inspiring unconventional placement of makeup.’
1. Create a flawless base with Superstay Better Skin Foundation and Concealer. Nourish lips with Baby Lips Quenched.
2. Apply Color Tattoo in Turquoise Forever on the inner corner of brow bone, working up to brow, using your finger.
3. Apply Eyestudio Mono Lagoon Blue with the ‘dolly dabber’ to build up intensity of colour.
4.Use a socket brush to fade the Lagoon Blue towards the nose and out to the temples.
5. With another socket brush, intensify with Eyestudio Mono Couture Blue.
6. Apply Big Eyes Mascara to top lashes only.
7. Mix Baby Lips with White Kohl to give luminosity high on cheekbones.
RICHARD NICOLL – ‘Sporty Lady. A small, simple detail that’s just right: a blocked off, horizontal, light metallic eyeliner.’
1. Create a flawless base using Baby Skin and Better Skin Concealer. Nourish lips with Baby Lips Quenched.
2. Apply surgical tape to map out a straight eye liner.
3. Use Color Tattoo in a metal chosen for the model’s skin tone, stopping short just past the last lash and angling up to under the tape.
4. Fill in brows with Master Drama Brow Pencil and groom into place.
5. Apply Dream Touch Blush in Apricot to the apples of the cheeks.
6. Pat Color Sensational Stripped Nudes in Honey Beige or Naked Brown onto the lips, dependent on model’s skin tone.
7. Apply Fit Me powder to reduce shine on the T-zone.
ASHISH – ‘Teenage prom princess (she likes pink!) who gets dragged through a hedge backwards on her way home…’
1. Apply Better Skin Foundation and Concealer.
2. Line outside V of eyes with Master Chromatics Magic Magenta.
3. Highlight inner corners with Master Chromatics Vibrant Gold.
4. Whiten balls of eyes with Big Eyes Pencil using finger.
5. Add same white pencil to the water rim.
6. Add a light touch of Color Tattoo in Endless Purple to white on balls of eyes (creating a luminous lilac).
7. Apply a sheer round wing of Hot Plum Color Sensational Lipstick to outer eyes with finger. A cloud of colour!
8. Give model her own Big Eyes Mascara and ask her to apply top and bottom. Lots!
9. Use a foundation brush to place Dream Touch Blush in Berry high on cheeks.
10. Intensify Blush with Fuschia Flash Color Sensational Lipstick.
11. Highlight tops of cheekbones with Baby Lips Pink Punch or Berry Bomb, dependent on skin tone.
12. Dab Fuchsia Flash Color Sensational on lips and gloss over with gloss.
13. Powder T-zone and add more concealer under eyes.
OSMAN – ‘Young jet-set bohemian with an opulent eye. A modern day Cleopatra. She’s expensive!’
1. Conceal imperfections with Baby Skin and Better Skin Concealer.
2. Create a rounded, elongated wing shape on the lid with Master Kajal in Lapis Blue.
3. Intensify with Eyestudio Mono in Couture Blue.
3. Line under eyes and stretch out with Master Kajal in Gold.
4. Apply Baby Lips in Quenched to the cheekbones to highlight and to lips to nourish.
5. Coat top lashes with Great Lash Mascara.
6. Powder the T-zone with suitable Fit Me Powder.
It’s been such a busy year that I haven’t had time to blog but I couldn’t resist this picture of Lily Allen with furry friend from her recent video shot in Cape Town, South Africa. She was very brave cuddling up to a predator and also sat aside a zebra! You can see the video at www.youtube.com/watch?v=vo9Fja5x04o
Lily had been on holiday and developed a gorgeous tan, which we enhanced with Charlotte Tilbury’s Wonderglow. I smudged a thin line of black kohl pencil on her upper lashes, using old favourite Feline from M.A.C. I applied a natural set of Eyelure lashes and because her fringe was long, I brought attention to her lower lash line in a ‘fresh’ way, by placing small dots of black eyeliner (Maybelline NY’s Master Duo was perfect because it has an integral applicator that ends in a small ball). First of all I was going to keep the lips balmed, but couldn’t resist the bright pop of M.A.C’s Candy Yum Yum. Lily can certainly carry colour! She’s great fun to work with and has a gorgeous face, and I especially like doing her makeup when she’s relaxed (or asleep…)
It was very hot (96 degrees!) and we were working outside in the wilderness. When you’re on location you have to consider products other than makeup – sun protection, insect repellent – and skin care needs to cover more eventualities than usual (cooling aftersun and anti-histamine cream).
I use Garnier’s Ambre Solaire range (and take enough bottles for the crew!) plus a great spray on insect repellent I found online (Repel 55 from www.pyramidtravelproducts.co.uk) that makes the skin gleam as well as protecting it from bites. The last thing you want is to be covering up any extra redness.
You also have to work in a tight space so every product has to count. Above you will see my favourites and fundamentals including my Dermacolour palette from Charles Fox (www.charlesfox.co.uk) where I also bought my trusty kit bag (pictured below) which I never travel without!
With most of my new year resolutions fallen by the wayside, I wanted to face February with a fresher face and was delighted to be invited by the ladies at the Josh Wood Atelier in Holland Park to visit their new beauty rooms and be pampered with Natura Bisse products. My colorist Agi had already told me that she’d experienced The Cure facial before Christmas and hadn’t needed to wear makeup on her skin for ten days, so I opted for that one. Apparently it’s often chosen as a red carpet treatment and I can see why – I soaked up the compliments at an awards event the following evening (and then undid some good by sleeping in my makeup, but I’m only human). The treatment takes place in an oxygen tent which is very energising and gave me a real buzz afterwards. The therapist Carol trained as a medical asceticist, so she really knows her stuff and said that she’s increasingly impressed with the products’ penetration and hydration. I was impressed too and will certainly be going back for more, especially now that the Atelier has become a one stop shop for beauty – they do lashes too and Marian Newman will soon be in residence for nails. I always leave feeling like a lady!
I’ve been paid a visit by makeup mistress and ex-assistant Athena Paginton today and she brought along a book called ‘Earth’ by Nicholas Cheetham, featuring aerial photographs of earth, water, air and fire (such as the Arabian desert above). Athena told me that she looks at this book when she needs inspiration. It reminded me of how I like to find inspiration in the real world, although sometimes in smaller (and less obviously beautiful) inhabitants like this moth…
To quote Edward de Bono again, “Finding inspiration in the the everyday is a powerful source of creativity,” you will never be stuck for an idea if you keep your eyes and mind open to the world around you. Here follows some pictures from three editorial stories I shot with still life photographers Coppi Barbieri, inspired by the natural world.
I often quote Edward de Bono, “To find inspiration in the everyday is a powerful source of creativity”. It’s become my motto. I also sometimes find real life more interesting than art, particularly how women really wear makeup. This striking metallic lined lip was inspired by a lady who worked on the till at Mothercare, who kindly allowed me to take her photo. I recently came across it in a drawer and thought I’d share it.
Congratulations to Lily for her number one status! I really enjoyed doing the makeup for her video because she loves a look. Fresh skin can carry dramatic eyes and Lily can work a flash lip too… fluorescent orange for a loud mouth pictured here but we had four lip looks on the day, including clear gloss, midnight navy and shimmering pink. The eyes stayed the same - nothing catches the light better than crystals. They’re easy and effective once you get the hang of it and like eyeliner, worth practising. Dot a little eyelash glue on lids and apply crystals one by one with a dampened cotton bud. Pop videos entail long days but they’re fun, and I loved working with the talented hairdresser Alex Brownsell, stylist Richard Sloane and nail technician extraordinaire, Michelle Humphrey. We team up together for Maybelline NY so she’s a real creative collaborateur. We’re looking forward to whatever Lily wants next…
The question ‘is beauty art?’ was posed to me and a few fellow makeup artists by Victoria Hall at Bazaar Beauty online. Here’s what I said below and you can read the rest of the article at uk.bazaar.com/1eoumlZ - it’s interesting!
“I don’t believe that ‘the face is a canvas’ as each face is unique and you shouldn’t sacrifice beauty for creativity. In my opinion, make-up should enhance the features and communicate a certain amount of character. Fashion is completely inspired by art at the moment – where art leads, fashion follows – but I think that real life is more interesting than art, so I try to be more inspired by the everyday (as Edward de Bono said, “to be inspired by the everyday is a powerful source of creativity”). After all, most artists are trying to communicate or capture a moment of real life. If you’re inspired by what’s happening around you, you’ll always be current.”
Which artists have inspired you?
“I have been inspired by so many artists, including Lempicka for cubic highlighting and shading; the Fauves for their ‘savage’ use of colour, which was considered so shocking at the time; and
Gilbert and George for their initial restraint with colour. They only used black and white at the beginning of their career, before introducing colour by colour until eventually their work looked like stained-glass windows.
Pictured: Todd Lynn SS14
Continuing with the garden theme, I’ve just come across this advertisement for Perrier Jouet which I worked on way back in December last year, shot by the incredible partnership Warren and Nick. The garden was created in a studio not far from where I live, and was very much like the garden I’d like to live in! I fell in love with the pure white Japanese anemones and who wouldn’t be happy if champagne was on tap…
I really enjoyed making up Georgia Jagger for this story shot by Venetia Scott and styled by Bay Garnett for British Vogue’s October issue. We were on location at Great Dixter House in Rye, probably the most beautiful place I’ve ever worked in. Nature has a way of combining colours that you’d never put together yourself, so it’s very easy to be inspired to try something contrasting – it obviously works because it attracts bees!
Here’s an unpublished closeup from the current Vogue Ukraine, shot by Phil Poynter with hair by the amazing Lyndell Mansfield, also at CLM with me. You can see the full length fashion shots at http://clmuk.com/hair-make-up/make-up/sharon-dowsett/fashion/vogue-ukraine-phil-poynter-3#1. Five different looks on four models in one (not very long) day in Paris. Go team!